How To Care For Mums All Season

Taking care of mums is relatively easy. These are the things all mums need to grow properly:

• Lots of Water
• Full Sun
• Well-draining soil
• Space to Grow
• Fertilizer
• Pinch for Early Blooms
• Pruning 
• Deadheading

1. Water Adequately

Mums require a lot of irrigation because they are in direct sunlight. Unfortunately, it is difficult for these plants to get water because water can run off the side and stick to the stems and leaves.

Water does not reach the roots, leaving the plant moisture-starved. A simple solution is to hydrate the plant's root ball for 1 to 2 hours before planting. Avoid leaving the mums in the water too long, as they need just the right amount of water for a long life.

Once the mums are planted, water daily in the evening. Watering them in the mornings doesn't give the soil adequate time to soak up the moisture before the sun rises and dries it up.

2. Give the Mums Full Sun

Mums are a fussy plant in general. A little too much or not quite enough of a good thing, like sunlight, never sits well with these flowers. That is why mums are photoperiodic, which means they blossom when they receive just the right hours of light. Indoor mums do best with bright, indirect light.

Meanwhile, mums grown outdoors need full sunlight or at least 6 hours of bright light a day. However, you don’t have to adhere to this strictly. If you live in a hot region like Texas, full sun may cause your plants to shrivel. The mums should receive sun with a little bit of shade, especially at noon. 

3. Well Draining Soil

Whether in pots or the landscape, mums are happiest in rich, well-drained soil. They love water but don’t want it for too long as it could cause root rot and other issues. Any good-quality potting mix designed for container plants should do the trick in containers. 

In gardens, mums prefer soil rich in organic matter, so add compost or other organic material to give your plants the best shot at being healthy plants. Do not plant your mums in clay soils, as they hold onto water.

4. Space to grow

Lastly, mums need room to grow. Chrysanthemum roots are shallow but spread out.

Overcrowding these plants by planting them too close prevents air circulation and sun penetration and hinders evaporation. These issues cause pests and diseases. So, if you intend to plant them in the garden, ensure they are 18 inches apart from other plants or mums.

5. Use Balanced Fertilizer

Mums also need feeding. However, this depends on whether they are in pots or outdoor gardens and the fertilizer you use. Outdoor mums in a well-kept organic garden may need composted fertilizers during planting and later in the season, a few weeks before they blossom. If you want big, bold, and beautiful blooms, apply fertilizer monthly during the active growing seasons. 

Potted mums may need liquid fertilizer at least a month after the seedlings are planted, every month until the flower buds open. Slow-release fertilizers should be applied every six to eight weeks, starting at least a month after planting and stopping before they bloom. 

6. Pinch Early Growth

The beautiful rounded domes of blooms that many love about mums don’t happen magically. The trick is well-timed pruning called pinching. Pinching refers to removing the stems’ growing tips to encourage more flowers. Most potted fall mums are already pinched. It is the young spring plants that need pinching. 

Once the stems are about six inches tall, remove a couple of inches of the tip of a branch by nipping it between your thumb and forefinger until you get to the first set of leaves. Do this for all the stems or branches at least 6 inches every 2 to 4 weeks.

Each pinched stem will divide into two new ones, creating a dense, compact growth habit. This is not compulsory, though. You can leave your mums alone. They will look slightly sparse but still add color in late summer and fall.

7. Pruning

Caring for mums also requires pruning. Pruning prepares the mums for winter dormancy and new growth in the coming season. 

Pruning in Late Fall

In late fall, after the flowers have faded and the first frost has killed most of the foliage, cut the stems down to about 4–6 inches above the soil level. Leave a short stub of the stems to protect the crown and ensure a new plant next year. 

Remove all brown, mushy, or spotted stems that feel brittle, and dispose of the debris away from your garden. Stems that bend instead of snapping are not dead and may come back, so do not remove those.

Delaying the cleanup until spring in colder climates may provide extra winter protection. Do not prune your mums in the winter, as the plants will not recover for dormancy.

Pruning in Spring

After winter, it is imperative to clear away remnants and tidy up the plant to prepare your mums for the growing season. As soon as you feel the weather warming up and see new green growth emerging from the base of the plant, know that it's time to prune again. Inspect the plant for dead stems or untrimmed ones from fall.

Cut these stems down to ground level, avoiding any new green shoots. Also, rake away any mulch, leaves, or other debris around the base of the plant as they harbor pests, diseases, or fungi. 

8. Deadheading

Deadheading mums can be tedious, thanks to abundant flowers. However, it may be well worth the effort when you realize your mums look prettier and seem to last longer. Note that this practice does not encourage new growth. It only supports the remaining flowers for a longer-lasting season. 

To deadhead, clip all the faded flowers during the late summer and fall bloom period. This is when flowers begin to wither and lose their color.

Peak season may call for deadheading two or three times a week to make the process quick and easy. Do not trim the stems, though. They help protect the crown through winter. You can prune those stems in spring instead. 

9. Pest and Disease Management

Fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew and rust, can affect mums. The fungi produce symptoms on affected plant parts in the form of whitish or grayish flour-like material on leaves. These diseases inhibit plant growth and cause leaf drop and poor flowering.

Excess humidity is required for the disease to spread. Thus, the best way to prevent it is to provide air circulation between stems by pruning. Fungi also cause rust, which manifests as orange, dusty spots on the underside of leaves. Infestation weakens the plant and affects flowering.

Remove affected leaves and plant the mums further apart to allow better air circulation. Water the soil and not the leaves and stems, and treat with fungicide.

Mulching

Mulching is a key part of protecting plants from winter. It can keep the roots safe from repeated freezing and thawing. It helps regulate temperature and prevents confusion about dormancy or beginning new growth. 

Organic mulches, such as shredded leaves, straw, bark, or wood chips, are ideal for mums. Avoid using compact materials, like heavy clay-based mulch, as they can restrict water drainage and air circulation around the roots.

Apply well-composted mulch around the base of the plant, being careful not to pile mulch against the stems or cover the lower leaves. Aim for a 2-inch-thick layer that helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature without starving the roots of oxygen. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot or fungal diseases. 

Staking Taller Variety

Tall plants, especially with heavy blooms, become top-heavy and break their stems or flop over without any support, damaging the plant and ruining its beauty. Staking them prevents this, especially during windy or rainy conditions. 

When the plant is propped up, it can spend its energy growing and flowering rather than trying to keep itself upright. The result may be increased stem sturdiness, more blooms, and healthier plant performance.

Here is how you can do it:

• Choose the Right Stakes: Use wooden or metal plant stakes, as they are sturdy, or a circular plant support ring. They should be the same length as the height of the mum.
• Position the Stake Early: Stakes should be used when the plant reaches 6–8 inches tall while it is young and growing. Staking the mum in later stages may damage the roots and affect the plant’s development. 
• Place the Stake Close to the Base: Push the shaft into the soil 2-3 inches from the main stem without penetrating the root ball to secure it without damaging roots.
• Tie the Stems: Tie garden twines around the stake and stem as the plant grows taller. Keep the knot slightly loose, as tightness may damage the plant. It should be loose enough to allow the stems room for expansion. You may need to retie the know at every 6 to eight inches of growth.

When to Stake Taller Garden Mums

Mums should be staked immediately after planting or when the plant has grown to about 6 to 8 inches early in the growing season. The plant grows through the shaft and receives the support it needs as it gets heavier. Don’t wait too long unless you want to damage the roots or stunt their growth.

You may need to continue adding stakes as the plant grows if you live in a windy area or the mums grow particularly tall. The plant should be able to hold itself upright when the flower buds develop in summer.  

Potted or fall mums are used as short-term decor plants and will not survive long, no matter how much you protect them from the cold. However, you can take a few precautions to ensure they don’t suffer a premature death.

Transplant

Always transfer your mums from the nursery pot to a new pot when you get it home. Store-bought mums are often root-bound and cannot grow well. They need more room to grow and flourish. Start by watering the potted mum and then get hold of a pot slightly bigger than the nursery pot. 

Pull out the mums gently, untangle the root ball with a shake, and plant in the new pot with new potting soil. Then, water the plant and ensure it drains from the drainage holes. You can now care for it following the basic mums plant care guidelines mentioned above. 

Placement

Potted or not, mums thrive under bright, indirect light. Indoors, this means potted mums have to be placed 1 to 2 feet away from an east-facing window as this spot provides ample light without overexposure.

Do not place the plants near heaters, air vents, or fireplaces, as excess heat will dry them out. Also, do not place the plants near cold drafts or air conditioning units to avoid stressing them. You might also want to avoid high-traffic areas where the plants could get accidentally knocked over. 

The longer night in fall will encourage your mums to flower, so besides the basic care guidelines, there is nothing much you need to do. Just remember:

• Deadhead. For more blooms throughout the season, trim off dead flowers and foliage.
• Fertilize your perennial mums with a phosphorus fertilizer. Phosphorus is vital for strong roots, which plays a key role in helping the hardy mums survive winter.

If your mums are annuals or treated as such, they will not survive the winter no matter what so don’t waste your fertilizer on them. 

After your mums bloom their last flowers, prepare them for the coming winter. Here’s how to winterize your mums:

Garden Mums

Mums planted in the ground in USDA zone six and above do not need to be winterized. These regions hardly get an extended freeze. Still, if there is a frost forecast, provide your mums with extra protection using frost protection fabric, an overturned cardboard box, or mulching.

In mild areas, most mums should survive outdoors if you pack mulch around the plants as long as they are planted in well-drained soil. 

You need to provide adequate winter protection for established plants growing in the ground in USDA Zones 4-7. Wait until the first frost and then start mulching. When spring rolls around, cut back the dead tops and remove the mulch when you see new growth. 

Potted Mums

Potted mums rarely survive the outdoors after winter sets in in most climates. While contained, the roots are more exposed to the freezing temperature than if they were underground. 

The easiest method to ensure they survive another season is to remove the dead foliage and stems. Leave at least 3-4 inches of stems and take the plants indoors to keep them dormant.